By Henri Bourride
Confession: Henri has never been much of a beer drinker, usually preferring a simple pinot or cabernet, even with a taquito plate or burger. Merci a mon pere for that, who like moi, never met a red he didn’t like.
On the other hand, having grown up in the Land of Sky Blue Waters and not far from Milwaukee—a city made famous by beer—Henri has always been well aware of the beverage’s place in American culture, though he was always curious about what his classmates meant by “tall boys.”
Not long after arriving in the Big Pomme after fleeing the Midwest, I heard the word “Chico” for the first time. Apparently, a beer revolution of sorts was underway and Chico’s Sierra Nevada Brewing Co. was leading the charge.
Craft brewery is an umbrella term used to describe breweries that make beer in much smaller batches than the corporate-owned macro-breweries (Coors, Budweiser) and are often individually or family owned and distributed only locally. Founded in 1979 in Chico, Sierra Nevada opened the floodgates for thousands of microbreweries in tiny towns and major cities across the country. While the term “microbrewery” originally referred to the amount of beer produced annually (15,000 gallons, or fewer) it has come to be associated with an attitude: anti-corporate, pro-environment, experimentation with unconventional recipes, and an investment in community.
And then there’s the brewpub, a craft brewery with an on-site kitchen, as opposed to breweries that only produce beer without on-site restaurants, often instead contracting with food trucks or other off-site providers.
Welcome to Farmers
Farmers Brewery produced its first batches of beer in Princeton in Colusa County in 2020, then in 2022 opened Farmers Brewing Restaurant and Taproom in Chico’s Meriam Park. Though Henri initially resisted Meriam Park, it’s been gradually growing on him with its several wonderful restaurants, an ice cream parlor featuring delicious made-on-site ice cream, a coffee “camp,” and the Barn, with live music several nights a week, often free.
In fact, Henri has become quite enamored of Farmers Restaurant, particularly the outside patio. While inside, the restaurant can get a bit loud, especially on weekend afternoons, the patio feels like a different world, with a quiet, restrained energy—toddlers attempting to play cornhole, dogs snoozing under tables, and views of the Barn across the field and the Sierra Nevada foothills in the distance. The staff seem to love their jobs.
The restaurant’s menu is appropriately basic, with a handful of “shareables” (Bavarian pretzel, nachos, garlic fries, $10-$20); salads ($12-$19), burgers and sandwiches ($16-$23); and house favorites (Classic Mac N Cheese, Fish & Chips, Taproom Tacos, $9-$28); as well as desserts, including raspberry beignets ($6-$10).
Among their most popular beers are the Sun Up West Coast IPA and the “530,” an unfiltered wheat ale. They also offer a range of seasonal and one-time beers. All available in pints and half pints. Six packs and crowlers (canned growlers)—as well as hats, t-shirts, and even pet gear—are available at the adjacent gift shop. (Farmers brews around 20,000 barrels of beer annually—as compared to Sierra Nevada’s 1.25 million and Budweiser’s 200 million).
For $60 (a year), you can join the “Mug Club” and have your beer poured into 25-oz. mugs for 16-oz. prices as well as enjoy discounts in the gift shop.
Over the course of several visits, Henri has sampled the fish and chips, the chicken Caesar salad, the Nashville Hot Fish Sandwich, and the Mac N Cheese. All were delish. Probably the tastiest was the fish sandwich, battered (fresh) cod on a brioche bun with slaw, tomatoes and crinkle-cut pickles. Notes: 1) It’s very spicy; 2) Ask for extra napkins.
I also enjoyed a pint of Farmers Light, in honor of my mid-western roots, although on subsequent visits ordered their house cab ($14). No one raised an eyebrow.
Farmers Brewing Restaurant and Taproom is located in Meriam Park at 1950 Market Place and is open 11am -9pm Thurs.-Sat. and 11am-8pm Sun. and Tuesday. Kids eat free 4 pm-8 pm Sunday. Phone (530) 399-7374. See full menu
The Farmers Brewery and Taproom in Princeton is located at 880 County Road WW, and open Fri. 4:00pm.-8:00p.m., Sat. noon-8 pm, and Sun. noon-5pm. Beer menus and food-truck schedule at Princeton Farmers Taproom. Phone (530) 982-2016.
Other Chico brewpubs:
The Allies Pub, specializing in British and American ales and classic English pub food (bangers and mash, pasties, and potato- and pastry-topped pies). Patio dining, 426 Broadway, Ste. 130. (530) 809-1650.
Sierra Nevada Taproom and Restaurant, serving a wide range of ales, lagers, and stouts, plus lots of seasonal beers, with a full pub menu (burgers, pastas, fish and chips, pizzas). Patio dining, 1075 E. 20th St. (530) 345-2739.
The Big Pomme lost a gem when Henri sashayed to here.