Fish tacos, anyone?

Henri’s unmet New Year’s resolutions lead to unexpected bliss in Chico

By Henri Bourride

Henri had every intention of honoring his New Year’s resolutions this year, despite never having done so in the past. Of course this year’s, once again, pertained to turning over a leaf nouvelle, at the unwelcome but expected advice from Dr. Epinards, who claimed some lifestyle and dietary adjustments would likely increase Henri’s potential life span. Of course, the good doctor didn’t discuss the degree to which said life span would be more miserable if I were to take his sage advice.

As far as the exercise part went, he had two suggestions: Simply walk for a couple of hours every day or join a gym. Henri knew that a daily two-hour walk was out of the question, as it would not only interfere with his daily Crate & Barrel and Williams Sonoma online shopping, but that even if I could make the trip from chez Henri to Men’s Wearhouse and Famous Footwear and back in two hours, I would be left with no time to try on and assess my potential purchases.

On l’autre hand, joining a gym seemed feasible. Unfortunately, though Henri put a full week’s gym membership on his debit card, he joined over the phone and neglected to ascertain the gym’s location and was forced to contact his bank to dispute the transaction. I also recalled that the advice was simply to join a gym—not necessarily to visit one.

I actually considered buying an exerbikle so that I could, what’s the term?—work out?—at home while watching Judy Garland movies and reruns of “The Big Valley” and Paul Lynde on “Hollywood Squares.” Unfortunately, again, I was unable locate an exerbikle whose cup holder would accommodate a wine glass.

The doctor’s suggestion to reconsider my diet was even more disconcerting: Less red meat and pork, more “plant-based” food. He was unconvinced by my argument that sausages de Toulouse were plant-based, despite my pointing out that pigs themselves are largely vegetarian. Then he was flat-out wrong when he disagreed with me about Cheetos, undeniably vegetarian. “That’s not even food,” the well-intentioned doctor said. “It’s a food-like substance, as Michael Pollan, the food writer, would say.”

I wondered why anyone named pollen would even be allowed to write about food.

“I mean that you eat the vegetables,” he said. “Not that you eat animals that eat vegetables. Does eating a rib-eye make you a vegetarian just because cows are?”

I was getting confused, but a rib-eye sounded tres bien right then. Especially with a vegetarian Cabernet.

“Not only will you likely live longer, but you’ll probably lose some of that weight.” He looked at my mid-section. I’ve always looked like a “before” photo. “And just be happier overall.”

Happier? I started to panic.  No red meat? No pork? More vegetables?

What? Tofu? Tofurkey? Tempeh? Kale? Chard? I recalled being convinced one time to try vegan sausages. I called them not-wurst.

Then it hit me: Poisson!

“What about fish?” I said.

He nodded and crossed his arms. “Perfect.”

Then it hit me again: Fish tacos! A red-meat substitute and vegetables!

The origin of what we call the taco is uncertain, though most sources claim that it dates to the ancient Aztecs and Mayans, indigenous to the land west and southwest of the Gulf of Mexico, who folded corn flatbreads over various fillings, including fish. (Un petit aside: the Mayans called the gulf nahá, or “great water.” The Gulf of America? Donne-moi a break! How about the Gulf of Naja, you monsieur imbecile?)

After the Spanish conquered those “heathens”, they introduced lettuce and cabbage to tacos, and gradually other ingredients were added, including tomatoes, potatoes and chiles.

Over the years, tacos have become hugely popular, especially here in California, especially here in Chico, with our abundant and welcome proliferation of Mexican restaurants and taco trucks, set up in gas-station and liquor-store parking lots as well as otherwise empty lots. (We’re also lucky to have independent vendors selling tamales out of vans and car trunks on random street corners and in other parking lots.) Additionally, several ethnic taco variations have become popular, especially Korean (often made with Korean beef, kimchi, red cabbage and ginger).

Fish tacos are typically made with some kind of firm white fish—often cod or tilapia, sometimes halibut or sea bass—which is either battered and deep fried (Baja style) or grilled. Many restaurants offer both. Other fillings include lettuce, cabbage, garlic, tomatoes, cilantro, and some kind of sauce/salsa. Lime wedges, avocado and slices of radishes, carrots, and jalapenos are often included as garnish.

Dr. Epinards would likely point out that grilled fish tacos are better for you. Henri would point out that Baja-style taste better, mains down. A non-tete as far as Henri is concerned.

Like with his New Year’s resolutions, Henri had every intention of compiling a ranking of the best fish tacos in Chico. Alas, it would have been nearly impossible. All have been absolutely delicious and varied very little in preparation or presentation—most run $5-$7 ala carte (the Banshee’s are $8—and are worth every penny). Sierra Nevada’s plate includes three ($21.50), as does the Pour House’s ($16.49).

So, instead he offers a list of the restaurants he included in his two-week research project. All have full menus on their websites.

Aztlan Grilled Taqueria, 2601 Esplanade; (530) 965-5984. Baja-style only.

Banshee, 134 W. 2nd St.; (530) 895-9670. Baja only.

Barney O’Rourke’s, 740 Elliott Rd. (Paradise); (530) 877-9973. Baja only.

El Patron, 1354 East Ave.; (530) 343-9779. Baja and grilled.

La Cocina Economica, 905 Wall St.; (530) 809-0370. Baja and grilled.

La Costa Mariscos, 1141 Forest Ave.; (530) 342-3627. Baja only (plus ceviche tacos).

Pour House, 855 East Ave.; (530) 893-3000. Baja and grilled (though the grilled is not on the menu and you have to ask for them).

Sierra Nevada Taproom & Restaurant; 1975 E. 20th St.; (530) 345-2739. Baja only.

Sol Mexican Grill, 3269 Esplanade; (530) 342-4616.  Baja and grilled.

Henri will definitely continue to enjoy the abundance of delicious fish tacos here in Chico and in fact plans to explore the taco trucks’ options as well. And while he appreciates Dr. Epinards’ advice, he has already broken down and enjoyed tri-tip from the University Farm’s meats lab. From a TV tray and the comfort of his La-Z-Boy recliner.

So much for my resolutions.

Maybe next year.