By Henri Bourride
“Hey, Siri…good food and nice drink in Chico, California.”
“Okay, I found a good ice rink in Chico, California.”
Henri was totally lost.
For the most part he’s has been thrilled with his return to Chico from the Big Pomme. On the l’autre hand, though, a few things have been rather disconcerting. He was shocked, for example, to see that Macy’s, long rumored to be opening in the Gottschalks’ location in the Chico Mall, had not made the big move to your little ville.
Also disconcerting: the new construction and traffic. Sacre bleu!
So it wasn’t all that surprising a moi that I got lost after a fairly productive afternoon of shopping for scarves at the Men’s Wearhouse and a disappointing visit to Famous Footwear. Quel? No espadrilles?
In fact, lost is putting it mildly. Not only lost but starving. In fact, starving is putting it mildly. After all, shoe and scarf shopping can really work up an appetite. On top of that, bonne heure had nearly come and gone and Henri was thirsty. In fact, thirsty is putting it mildly.
I must have turned the wrong way on 20th Street, after Siri let me down.
At any rate, before long I was driving through a major construction zone—of both gigantic buildings and the road itself, orange cones and huge orange barrels attempting to keep me in my lane. (I learned later that I was witnessing Meriam Park for the first time and understand that there are some decent restaurants in this new development. Restez tuned.)
The foothills loomed. The wilderness. And it was getting dark.
But wait! On the corner up beyond the traffic light! A bright red sign on the side of a brand-new building: Rione Italian Restaurant.
Shangri-lasagna?
Perhaps Henri was saved.
I felt immediately like I was back in Roma. The dining room was filled with tables of laughing groups and toasting couples, and a long bar with some sports game on a large-screen TV. Wait staff scurried about with arms full of steaming plates and trays of wine glasses. Everyone having fun.
Rione, which opened in 2023, is the third restaurant owned and operated by Rich and Chris Garcia, the husband-and-wife team having opened their first in Modesto in the 1990s (Angelini’s) and then taking over Chico’s Red Tavern in 2013. Like the Red Tavern, Rione has a patio for outdoor dining, with occasional live music.
Rione’s dishes come from throughout Italy, including Tuscany, Umbria and Ligaria, but its focus is the Eternal City. From their website: Rione mostly focuses on those items you would order when you get off that airplane at the Fiumicino Airport in Rome. They use imported Italian pasta, meats, cheeses, and olive oil, and make their own fresh pasta, raviolis, and pizza dough.
Of course, I started with a delightful little house red as I perused the dinner menu. Antipasti ($8-$16) include calamari, meatballs with polenta, and salads. Pasta dishes ($22-$25) include lasagna Bolognese and raviolis with Italian sausages in a white-wine cream sauce. Entrees ($30-$46) include braised chicken thighs; prawns sauteed in wine, butter and garlic; braised oxtail; and filet mignon.
Rione also prides itself on its thin-crust pizza—“personal” ($16-$18) or 18-inch family-style ($30-$34), including prosciutto, sausage, mushroom, and several vegetarian options. The house pizza has pecorino, Italian sausage, and red peppers.
The kids’ menu ($12-$14) includes spaghetti with meat sauce and pepperoni or sausage pizza.
Henri was overwhelmed, but I finally went back to the old adage, “When in Rome…” Or, at least, “When in Bologna….”
After all, lasagna?
Saint moly! Among the best I’ve ever tasted, and Henri has tasted lasagna far and wine.
Speaking of which, a second glass of red was in order.
As was Uber.
Thankfully, I’ve been able to find Rione—intentionally, merci very much—several times since that crazy nuit. Never disappointed.
One evening, I wore one of my new Men’s Wearhouse scarves.
Siri has been cancelled.
Rione Italian Restaurant is located at 1990 Belgium Ave., at the corner of 20th St. and Bruce Road. Phone (530) 487-7021. Check them out online at rionechico.com, where you can make reservations, view menus, and scroll through the Garcias’ wonderful photos from their travels to Italy, from quiet, ancient Roman backstreets to Vatican sculptures to the Coliseum.
Rione is open for dinner Monday-Saturday 4:30 pm – 9:00 pm, and Sunday 4:30 pm – 8:30 pm. They’ll be opening for lunch soon, pending completion of Bruce Rd. and 20th St. construction.
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